Breathe it in

Breathe it in

Here they come. Breathe it in – the cool crisp offshores, the ground swells oozing in from across the Atlantic bringing with them the promise of solid waves.

By Renne Godfrey

It’s the time of year when our surfing ups its game – on the plus side there is the promise of higher wave counts, but also the prospect of heavier hold downs, and tougher paddle outs.

One man has a trick up his sleeve to help us better prepare for the season ahead.

Thomas Hague is a breath coach on a mission to improve surfers comfort and confidence in the water and better our response to wipeouts. In addition to his breathwork experience and qualifications, Thomas has a degree in Sports and Exercise Science, so has an in-depth knowledge of our bodies and how to use the breath to increase our health, happiness, and performance. From his base in North Devon, he works with people all over the world to help them understand and improve the physiology behind their breathing; ‘You breathe approximately 22 thousand times per day or 8 million breaths per year. Mastering one of the most powerful mechanisms in our body can have a tremendous impact’’, Thomas explains.

There is a valid reason why top athletes for years have made the most of breath work – and surfers are right up there with the best of them – many of the world’s big wave surfers work hard on breath-hold training to help them survive the near death hold downs they face.

Thomas believes that if we can optimise our breathing, create a strong foundation and follow a breath training program to increase our carbon dioxide tolerance, we can improve our capabilities not just in the water but in general health and wellbeing too.

‘Breathe with me’ he says reassuringly at a training session at The Wave. One of the signature tests Thomas’s breathwork covers is the Body Oxygen Level Test (BOLT) – an exercise that can determine your carbon dioxide tolerance and breathlessness point during exercise.

Thomas breaks it down into simple steps.
• Have a timer ready on your phone or watch.
• Take a normal silent breath in through your nose and allow a normal silent breath out through your nose.
• Now, pinch your nose closed and keep your mouth closed to stop air entering your lungs.
• Start your timer and see how long it takes until you feel the first distinct desire to breathe.

‘You are not testing how long you can breath-hold for, you are finding out how long until your body reacts to the build-up of CO2’, Thomas explains, ‘your BOLT score will be how long you last from nose pinch and holding your breath until you feel that first distinct desire to breathe.’

As fit, regular surfers, we ideally want a score over 25 and with some training a score of 40 plus. Anything below 25 and Thomas believes that the effectiveness of our breathing on health and performance could do with some help.

The simple step of doing breath work and improving our BOLT score can have knock on health effects across the board – by being more in control, we can delay the onset of breathlessness, improve our quality of sleep, increase energy levels, and reduce stress and anxiety, to name just a few. What’s not to love!

Thomas is working with the English Adaptive Surfing team at the moment and seeing great results in helping the athletes calm themselves before a session, and gain more confidence both in and under the water. Thomas is passionate about his approach – ‘focusing on the way we breathe, slows down our heart rate, increases our heart rate variation (HRV), activates our parasympathetic nervous system, and allows us to be more grounded.’

Understanding what is going on in our bodies during a breath hold on land, can help us stay more relaxed during a hold down in the water, and Thomas’ range of training exercises help to regain effective breathing when we finally pop up.

It’s something we all do, every single day, and by being better at it, and in control of our breath, we can have more confidence, charge harder, and be happier healthier surfers at the same time.

3Pod Mix

3Pod Mix

Issam Auptel, Yael Peña & Diogo Martins just dropped their second 3Pod Mix edit, filmed in Southwest of France this spring, hit play and pull in.

Surfers: @yaelpesu from Canaries @diogo__fmartins from Portugal @issamauptel from France

Filmed and edited by @guilherme_____martins

Moliets on the pump

Moliets on the pump

Ten days in Moliets-et-Maa just 30 minutes North of Hossegor with Jack Parker-Swift, Jowan Pegg, and Joe Ellery.

Sleep Paralysis

Sleep Paralysis

How much surfing can you fit into one day? or night…? Teiki and Liam from Ht’s Resort gave us a last minute call saying that it could be worth coming over for this sneaky spike in swell. It was a perfect direction for HT’s and we figured it might be our last chance before the Indo dry season officially starts and the hoards of frothing crew make the pilgrimage to the Mentawaii Islands. After a few quick calls we pulled the pin and went.

Filmed: @ryzphoto @tommyshoots4dastars @indo.eye

Edit: @ryzphoto

Surfers: @beaucram @oscar.langburne @saltedmemoirs @liamtheturner @charlie_stambo

Perfect Peniche

Perfect Peniche

Nic Von Rupp embarks on an exhilarating surf and island-hopping escapade in Peniche, a geological wonder of the Portuguese coast where there’s always a place blowing offshore. Peniche is one of those places that seem to be conceived by a surfer’s mind. It welcomes all kinds of swells and winds and provides waves and conditions for all levels of surfers, from inexperienced novices to high-skilled pros. But don’t be fooled into thinking Peniche is just about surfing. Joined by his girlfriend, Nic takes a romantic trip around the medieval town of Óbidos, one of Portugal’s must-go places, before jumping on a boat and paying a visit to the breathtaking Berlengas Islands natural reserve, a jewel of Portugal’s West Coast. From towering barrels to exploring hidden coves or walking around old castle walls, this is a journey of history searching, nature immersion and red-hot surfing action.

Ricky Nomad – Perfect Indo Barrels

Ricky Nomad – Perfect Indo Barrels

There are few people we know that have gotten more tube time in than Ricky. Here are just a couple of clips to prove it.

At 38 years old, flying-under-the-radar is exactly what Ricky has done these last 18 years. While he didn’t start surfing until his late teens, he’s been more shacked than most in Indonesia in the years since, and you’ve likely never heard of him. Which is perfectly fine. Ricky, like the rest of the Drifter Ambassadors, is motivated by the tube, not by notoriety.

Drifter Surf – The Art of Surfing