”To resume, we were in Hossegor with my friends and a big storm was on the way so we escaped to Morocco and went on a strike mission to Safi, a wave that I’ve always dreamed of surfing. Luckily enough we were on a plane to surf that swell. We ended up only getting one surf with a proper swell then the swell died. But most surprising experience there was to be able to surf a beachbreak that was similar to home but in Morocco with only a few friends in the water. But other than surfing our time was mostly spent at the local snack ‘Mc Dolido’ to stay well fed in between surfs.” – Charly

Surfers: Charly Quivront, Paul Bayle

Film & edit: Andy Benetrix

The 170km long and 5km deep Nazaré canyon creates the largest and most fear-inducing waves on the planet.

Between November and March, Sítio da Nazaré and its iconic lighthouse has become a hotspot for eager observers hoping to witness the surf show of a lifetime.

As ‘the holy grail’ of big wave surfing, Nazaré attracts a community of intrepid surfers from across the world that dedicate their lives to riding it.

One of these big wave riders is North Devon local and dryrobe® Ambassador Andrew Cotton. Ditching plumbing to pursue his dream to be a professional big wave surfer, Cotty has ridden down the face of some of the most extreme waves recorded in the world. Even after breaking his back after an infamous wipeout, he returned to the big wave surf scene determined to ride the faces of these monstrous walls of water.

In dryrobe’s® latest film (shot by Johannes Hertel), Cotty talks about his big wave career, connection with Nazaré, what motivates him to keep chasing these colossal waves and why quitting isn’t an option.

“I always just wanted to be a surfer. Within surfing, everyone has strengths and weaknesses. And my weaknesses were “surfing” and my strengths were just going straight on bigger waves.”

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to become a big wave surfer, you’re about to find out.

Cotty wears the Black Camo Black dryrobe® Advance.
More on dryrobe at dryrobe.com.
More in Andrew Cotton at: @andrew_cotty

Australia’s Gold Coast recently came alive with a never ending run of back-to-back swells. In late April, as the WSL’s Championship Tour was doing business on Australia’s southern and west coasts, the more northern Gold Coast came alive, and Simon “Shagga” Saffigna (legendary longtime friend and filmer to Mick Fanning), Joel Parkinson and Dean “Dingo” Morrison, was there to capture all of the action.

When the dusted had settled we needed to investigate, so we rang Mick to get the down low. After a marathon stint of waves you’d forgive a surfer for sounding a little low on energy but when Mick answered our call he was full of life and happy to have a chat. So happy, in fact, that we turned the conversation into the soundtrack for the edit above. We think you’ll agree it explains the crazy visuals perfectly.

From the incredible waves to the wild wipeouts and the celebrated surfers in the water to the sheer volume of humans in general, Mick was candid and engaging.

O’Neill is a proud partner of Surfability, the only full-time adaptive surf school in the world. The short film ‘Time to Adapt’ was filmed last year with Surfability and its members including para surfing world champion Llywelyn ‘Sponge’ Williams and Manoah Smiley, the driving forces behind this project.

Here is what Manoah has to say in his own words:
Thanks for watching, and reading. I’m Manoah, one of many appearing in this vid with strong links to Surfability, who helped to realise this film. I’m an anti-racism educator and amputee surfer living in Swansea, Wales. I’m on the steering group of Surfability, and also a caretaker at its centre at Caswell Bay, near Swansea. Surfability is the only full-time adaptive surf school in the world.

The two Bens I’ll be mentioning are Benjamin and Benedict. The former is Surfability’s founder and director, the latter a director. Jamie also gets a mention, he’s the film-maker. Surf is my lifesaver. Obviously, it’s great exercise and a joyful appreciation of the environment. Both are therapeutic, but there’s more, especially on the bigger days. A little fear or anxiety creeps in, and stress hormones are released. Moments later they’re processed. Perhaps it’s the simple relief of dodging getting smashed. Even better … the exhilaration of a late take-off on the bomb that looked threatening. I live with stresses induced by racism, and believe surfing is one of the best ways to process those hormones.

Surfing is when I feel most alive, most human. The ocean has no preconceptions or judgements about my abilities or attitude. So my efforts are rewarded, justly. Whether I’m charging down the line with no time to think, easy gliding, or landing big drops, I’m lit from head to toe.
Surfability is more than a surf school, it’s an enabling community for all things in adaptive surfing. Personal highlights from the last months include…
Enjoying my favourite break, Rhossili, thanks to Benedict having vehicular access. As my wave of the day petered out I looked back. There was Benedict, I’d dropped in on him, I laughed loud and long from the stoke – while apologising. His presence was the cherry on the cake. A witness, “sharing” it cos he was cool with the drop-in.
One day Benjamin suggested a break I hadn’t yet surfed. We loaded a SUP with our gear and paddled there together. Rocks and serious rips were navigated. Another “first amputee to surf this break” claim, thanks to Surfability – Surfability means access. If my regular buddy (Evan) can’t make it I can go to Caswell and lean on them, gently. I need minimal support, but essentially some. Oh, and the shared local knowledge, I can’t forget that gem!

When the tendrils of community reach into popular brands it’s very welcome too. Thanks O’Neill, the suits you made us are beauties. Thanks Jamie, you’re community too. It’ll be a joy to share your well-crafted, stylish and utterly magic film.

Filmed and edited by Jamie Hancock: @jamiehancock1
Voiceover: Johnny Bang Reilly: @johnnybangreilly

Kelly Slater, 51 and on fire, the GOAT is showing no signs of slowing down. Give him a few years and he might even peak, hit play for a full Slater throw down.