Peniche – fires again (Just not at Supertubos)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEEQ0QnDNbk#t=241

Peniche, it would seem, has had pumping waves everywhere but on the actual contest site! First we had The Super Sessions, now here’s bit of big wave riding. Let’s hope the wind changes soon hey!

Los Pollos Locos – Chapter 2 – México


Los Pollos Locos is a 4 part web series based on the life and waves of Volcom riders Oscar Moncada – Carlos Goncalves – Carlos Muñoz – Miguel Tudela

Six minutes of action, passion and the blood bound that fellow latinos have between each other and with the ocean.
This second edit is a mix of everything; from Mex main pointbreaks to epic Puerto Escondido Barrels. Watch a short section of Cali and Miguel shredding the points and then we travel all the way to Puerto to find Oscar Moncada and Carlos Goncalves enjoying nature as it’s most finest. They scored one of the biggest swell of the year so far and you can tell that in Oscar’s last mental wave. Turn up your volume, take a tequila shot and feel the good vibes of the “crazy chickens”.
Stay tuned for the next chapters of the guys surfing in Perú and Costa Rica

Edges of Sanity

Put this on full screen plug in your headphones!

If you love your surfing cold, remote and slabby you will love this gritty film directed by Chris McCLean and produced by Finisterre.

Set to a great poem by Dan Crockett that quite excellently draws on the similarities between mariners and surfers, brilliantly narrated by one of the worlds best actors, Charles Dance (Tywin Lannister in HBO’s Game of Thrones) it goes deeper than your average surf flick and pretty much sums up cold water surfing. You can almost feel the hailstones on your face!

It is the best film the brand have produced to date. We REALLY like it.

JOB V John John

At pretty much every beach in the world there are groms, and there are the hot rippers. The rippers nuture the groms, push them into waves, give them crap, get them into mischief, sanction them when they go too far, call them into bombs, and laugh when they get drilled.

When the groms start growing they start answering back, they get more crap. When they start charging, the rippers give them less room but still hoot them on. At a certain point they will start competing for sets. At this point it is “mano o mano”, they both want to be ‘the man’ and get ‘the bomb’, but the grom is still the grom and the ripper still holds a certain psychological sway over them.

The groms love and hate this routine in equal measure, but deep down they know this intricate relationship with the role model in their life has carved out their character and nutured their talent.

The old guys, well they just love seeing the groms grow up into men. Deep down they hope they become the surfers they dream to be, and be decent humans. BUT they still want to go deeper on the next set, and they still want respect. And if they don’t get respect, then they pull out the age card or just fade the grom into the pit…Even though the grom may be 45 by now!

It is one of surfing greatest traditions and it has kept a lot of kids the straight and narrow over the years. When the ripper is JOB, the grom is John John and the local is Pipe it is on a slightly different level, but in essence it is the same game that has played out on every beach in every country in the world since surfing was introduced.

We like that!

Gisele Surfs

Yep. Gisele surfs. Apparently… What’s your call?!

Greg Longs "non fatal drowning"

So…this is pretty hectic…Greg Long is one tough nut, but he suffered a “non-fatal drowning” while surfing the infamous Cortes Bank. That is pretty much drowning and being brought back by recuss…Something Maya is rumoured to have done twice…So,um. Yeah think about that. Dead and brought back to life. No wonder it’s a bit of a headspin.

Thankfully most big wave teams are pretty on it with the health and safety, but we can’t help thinking we are going to be seeing a few more incidents as boundaries are pushed in terms of size and locations, and things could get worse.